OnTheRoad

Luang Prabang, city of smoke and ashes. Well, when I first visited anyway anyway. Slash and burn agriculture is common in Laos, and that was in the dry season. Luang Prabang sat under a massive pall of smoke, as does the entire surrounding area; this is not a particularly friendly environment for those of us who wear contacts!

That said, this is the most attractive Laos city I've seen so far. It's nestled in the crook of a bend in the Meekong and is beautifully lit at night. The streets are reasonably clean, if full of tourists and everything is very well organised.

Places to stay: I can't recall the name of the place I stayed, something like Choumkong Guesthouse, around the corner from the Phu Si Guesthouse. The standard rate in the city, during the high season, is about $US5 per night for a room with shared bathroom, pricy by Laos standards. Avoid the Phu Si Guesthouse, they tried to overcharge me and they stole some of my friends stuff from his room due to a misunderstanding...

The Chanthanome Guest House is a better deal, 50,000 with attached bathroom and hot water in the low season. It's hard to find though, but nice if you can.

Places to eat: Cafe Ban Vat Sene is good, pricey by local standards but still not too bad. Fancy surroundings, staff in uniform who will fill your glasses before they get empty and great quality food.

If you want to go cheaper, then most guesthouses have reasonably priced food, but the places along Sisavangvong Road tend to be more pricey.

Things to do: Rent bikes ($US1 per day) and cruise around the city. It ain't a big city, and there are few hills, so it won't take long.

We went hiking with White Elephant tours, ran by a Canadian guy. A little expensive, but very good value with excellent english speaking guides and top quality equipment.

Check out the view over Luang Prabang in the Luang Prabang Panorama.