OnTheRoad

Khaplu is out east of Skardu, near the Kashmiri line of control. The place is nice enough, but if you're planning to head north to Hushe do one of three things first; skip around the military checkpoint and pick up transport on the other side (don't let them see you do this, obviously), convince someone on your transport to pretend they're your guide, or actually pay for a guide. The last option is definitely a last resort. I got turned back, which kind of pissed me off.

The Khaplu Inn is an ok place to stay. Take the rooms without attached bathroom, more sun, much nicer, only 100 rupees. The shared bathroom is scary though... And ask the cost before ordering food, the prices for some things can be a little iffy.