OnTheRoad

Dunhuang is another popular spot on the tourist trail, apparently even so for westerners; there are a pile of cafes serving up western fare near the bus station, most of which have better prices than the ubiquitous John's Cafe.

The Five Rings Hotel, 50 metres to the west as you exit the bus station, has decent value 20 yuan dorms. TV is present, with shower (8pm to 8am) close by and relatively clean toilets.

The Mugao caves which are the big attraction in Dunhuang received bad press from other travellers, for high prices and poor quality tours. You're pinned in and shuffled from cave to cave while a guide spouts on about the government's love for culture (think Cultural Revolution). So, we didn't go and I can't comment on it myself.

We did make it out to the Western Thousand Bhudda caves, which is an interesting spot, but not really worth the 30 yuan each, especially once the cost of getting there is factored in.