OnTheRoad

There are three valleys populated by the Kalasha people near to Chitral. Rumbur is the smallest, and has little in the way of tourist amenities, but is absolutely beautiful and has some of the friendliest people in an already-friendly country. Plus, they aren't muslims; so you can pick up a little Kalash wine or schnapps easily :)

Ingineer Khan's Kalash Home Guesthouse is a great place to stay in Grom (one of the valley villages), although quite a mouthfull to say. Just ask for Ingineer, it's a small town and anyone can point you to the right place. Ingineer is great to talk to, the place is well sited, clean and pleasant, and the food is great. 300 rupees for a dorm (I was the only person) with bathroom, including three tasty meals per day. Check the photos, there are some of the guesthouse in there as well.

As for things to do, just wander around. Ingineer can probably point you to a few good hikes; up and down the valley along the water channels is simple and beautiful. Or, if you're up for some pain, head to Sandurigar and up above it, to the hills where you can look down on the Chitral river and valley. It's about 1300m vertical climbing though, most of it without much of a path... Worth it though.