Syrian Transit
elyobo — Mon, 15/06/2009 - 7:14pm
Our time in Syria was brief; we had only a few objectives in our trip. First, and most important, was to restore our caffeine levels, which had fallen dangerously low during our time in Iran. The Syrian coffee quickly resolved this problem, so we moved onto the next target, visiting Apamea and some of the "dead cities" around Aleppo.
After an abortive attempt to take a tour from the Spring Flower hostel in Aleppo, we headed back to Hama. Hama apparently had one of the nicest old cities in Syria, but it was bombed out of existence during a 1980s uprising against the government. The town these days is clean and propsperous looking, but lacking a little character.
The Cairo Hotel there was able to sort us out with a driver to see Qala'at Shayzar, Apamea, Al Bara and Serjila on a long day trip. Departing at 10am, we discovered that the day was already stinking hot and getting worse. We were sweating freely before we'd even climbed up to Qala'at Shayzar and it was worse on the descent. Apamea was something of an endurance test (the main cardo is over two kilometers long) and after getting out at 2pm we were dreading exploring Al Bara and Serjila.
As we approached the dead cities, however, we noticed storm clouds piling up over the hills. The rolling sound of thunder is the perfect accompaniment to exploring these places, which are already somewhat eerie. Al Bara is set on red earth, amidst cherry orchards and olive groves, separated by fences made by salvaging rocks from the ruins. The main features of Al Bara are a largely intact stone church and a couple of completely intact tombs, with pyramid shaped roof tops. Although the site is extensive, the largest dead city in Syria, we didn't have much time to explore; it would be well worth coming out on your own transport and wandering around for a few hours.
The city of Serjila is much more compact and even more intact. The surrounding land is almost bare, unlike the orchard covered Al Bara, which allows you to get a much better feel for the place. The rain actually became a problem here, as the clouds suddenly burst into a massive downpour. The buildings are surprisingly complete, but almost all lack a roof, making shelter for us and our cameras difficult!
After Hama we had to deal with my expiring visa. I'd only taken a transit visa at the border, as it's free for Kiwis, and it was my last day. The backup plan was to cross to Lebanon and return, but it was worth investigating the passport and visa office in Tehran, even though I knew it was going to remind me of "Asterix and the House of the Gods", as Middle Eastern visa offices inevitably do. I wasn't to be disappointed.
The first person I encountered was the only one to speak English in the whole place, and it wasn't fantastic. He indicated that my transit visa could be extended (contrary to what every hotel manager I'd asked so far had told me) and gave me a form to fill out for 25 SYP. He told me to photocopy the front page of my passport and to get a stamp. Finding a photocopier nearby was simple enough, but the stamp was allusive; there was some dodgy character on the street trying to sell me one, but I was sure that couldn't be right... I went back to the first guy, who told me to buy it from the guy on the street. I did so, paying 15 SYP for the stamp which clearly states 10 SYP in Arabic on the front; presumably there is a proper place to get them where the 10 SYP stamp costs 10 SYP, but I know I'll never find it on my own.
Stamp, form, passport and photocopy in hand, I ascended the stairs to the second floor and fought my way through the crowds mobbing the various desks. After getting bumped from one desk to another, to another, back to the second, then back to the first I was eventually sent out to make more photocopies, this time of my old Syrian visa. Back to the first man, who wrote something on my application then sent me to get the signature of some general, who was apparently upstairs. Upstairs they told me to go out the front of the building, go about 50 meters down the road, and the general would be in the building there. A little questioning eventually led me to the right building, up a flight of stairs and along the way to his secretary, who showed me in and got the form signed. Back down the stairs, along the street and back to the first guy, who sent me off to another general for another signature. This chap was just next door, thankfully, and before I knew it my passport was stamped, signed and I was good to go.
Following that there was the necessary eating, drinking and shopping in Damascus. Good food is pretty cheap there (in contrast to places like Palmyra, where poor food is really expensive), so we ate well. Shopping for gifts in the old city. Hiding from the midday sun in front of the fan, wishing that the aircon in our overpriced room worked.
So we're now relaxing in Amman, Jordan, trying to figure out whether June needs a visa for Israel or not. We always seem to turn up at the worst time, however, so we've been here a few days and still don't really know. Hopefully tomorrow we'll find out and we can head on over, otherwise we're planning on catching some of the other Jordanian sites - Wadi Rum, Jerash, the Dead Sea and Dana.